Move Over Athens! This Ancient City In Italy Has A Better Preserved Parthenon

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From the timeless streets of Plaka, peppered with family-owned taverns and Orthodox churches, to the temple-dominated Acropolis Hill, Athens is one of the most popular destinations for Americans going to Europe this summer.

As the capital of Greece, the birthplace of the Western World as we know it, Athens is a cultural getaway like no other.

However, it is not without its faults: it can be impossibly crowded, especially around the historic center. If you think Rome is bad, wait until you see Athens in July.

But hey, who said that’s the only gateway to Ancient Greece still in existence?

Hundreds of miles away from the Saronic Gulf, over in Sicily—yes, as in Italy’s Sicily—there is a mini Athens featuring charming cobbled streets, far fewer crowds, and even a hilltop temple that puts the Parthenon to shame:

Discover Italy’s Mini Athens

You probably know Sicily for Palermo, Cefalù, Taormina and the like, but you haven’t truly experienced all that Italy’s trendiest island has to offer until you’ve set foot in an off-path Agrigento.

Located in the southwestern part of Sicily, this is a much-overlooked town that has developed a bit of a reputation for being among Italy’s less-affluent comuni: indeed, this is not the Italy of pastel hues, idyllic vespa rides, and la dolce vita, but it’s got its own particular charm.

Picture a compact Old Town, without the usual Instagrammable appeal you would expect, with narrow pathways lined by rows of humble dwellings, clothes hanging from pretty much every window opening, and the comforting odor of freshly-made foccacia coming from a panetteria nearby.

This is the un-touristy Sicily, the one you won’t see in a show like The White Lotus, and unpolished as it may be, you can’t say it doesn’t feel authentically Italian.

Behind the run-down facade of its centuries-old edifices, there are cozy family-owned trattorie serving Sicilian classics at affordable prices, a collection of Baroque churches with beautiful frescoes, and of course, the Valley of the Temples:

A Nearly-Intact Parthenon Look-Alike

The main tourist attraction in Agrigento, this massive archaeological zone is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and an impressive ensemble of Hellenic temples that have survived the passing of time through at least 24 centuries.

And yes, you read that right: Hellenic as in ‘from Greece’.

In case you didn’t know, before the Romans (and other subsequent civilizations) took over, and naturally, long before Italy was even a unified polity, Sicily was in fact settled by the Greeks, who founded the city of Akragas, where the Valley of the Temples now lies.

If you’re looking for that Parthenon look-alike from the feature photo, with the structures largely-intact, and tinged gold by the sunset, look no further than the Temple of Concordia:

Only around 40 years younger than the temple in Athens, this Doric masterpiece is one of the finest examples of Ancient Greek architecture still on display, and with most of its columns still standing, it is in a much better shape than the bombed-out, pillaged, damaged Parthenon.

Other must-sees in the Valley include the Temple of Hera, overlooking the green-clad Sicilian hills and the sea, the Temple of Heracles, whose surviving 8 columns offer us a glimpse into mystical, immemorial times, and the ruins of the Olympeion, simply the largest-ever Doric building ever constructed.

Not only is the Valley of the Temples packed-full of ancient sights, like the Acropolis Hill, it is considerably less crowded, with far fewer tourists taking day trips out here due to Agrigento’s relative remoteness compared to Sicily’s hotspots, and it’s even slightly cheaper:

While an all-encompassing Acropolis ticket will set you back about $21, accessing the Valley of the Temples costs $19.

How Affordable Is Agrigento?

That’s not the only ‘cheaper’ thing about Agrigento: compared to the resort-filled Sicilian coastline, both food and accommodation here are way more affordable.

Expect to pay around $15–⁠$17 dining out in an Old Town eatery—on that note, don’t miss out on Trattoria Concordia’s freshly-caught pesce spada and local wine—or approximately $3–⁠$5 for takeout slices of pizza and other quick snacks, and roughly $40–⁠$50 per night on a B&B stay.

Take a look at this one, for instance: it’s a Historic Center Apartment with a beautifully-renovated, modernized interior, Old Town views, and it should run you up $37-a-night as a traveling couple.

In the 4-star hotel category, there’s Hotel Della Valle, where some of the rooms feature views of the Valley of the Temples, from $83.50 per adult.

Finally, for a 5-star listing, equipped with a pool, a sumptuous continental buffet, and within short walking distance of a secluded Le Dune Beach, Aria Oasi Relax is our top pick, from $167 per night each for 2 guests.

How To Get To Agrigento

If you’re flying to Sicily this summer, from JFK with Delta, Agrigento is more accessible than you might think:

Landing in Catania (CTA), there are several transportation options getting to Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples, whether you’re traveling independently, or you’re booking a day tour through Get Your Guide (usually from $129 per person).

While tours are more expensive, buses and trains are definitely within-budget: the direct, 3h15 Flixbus service from Catania to Agrigento costs roughly $22, and if you’re opting for the rail, which usually involves changing trains once or twice, it takes between 6h03 and 6h44.

It’s the (much) slower alternative, but very scenic.

Naturally, you can also rent a car to explore Sicily without public transport constraints, and driving from Catania to the Valley of the Temples, it takes only 1h51.